DIY scope mounting tips for Wisconsin deer rifles
- Thread starter Lewis017
- Start date
...Also check ring alignment and correct height for your objective to avoid scope contact with the barrel. Tighten rings evenly to specified in-lb values and re-check after the first few shots. Keep ammo consistent (same lot/OAL), note environmental conditions, and confirm zero with a final 5-shot group. Use a small level to prevent cant, practice cheek weld consistency, and if you plan any long trips, re-verify zero at the range , bumps in transit can shift mounts.
I learned a long time ago that there is no real budget friendly when it comes to optics, especially when selecting a good scope and rings. My experience says that a rail, just about any will do. be sure to mount it securely making sure that the screw holes and screws are clean and have no traces of oil or grease. Use blue loc tite and don't overtorque the screws. A low reading inch pound torque wrench is a requirement and in most cases unless shooting a big magnum (over 300 Win) a max of 30 inch pounds is more than adequate. Scope rings are very important and the el cheapos will not do the job. For anything above 243/6mm you will need quality rings with at least 4 mount screws to the rail and 4 screws on the scope clamps. My preferences are Vortex Pro series, or for heavy magnums, Vortex Precision rings. Warne are also good providing that there are at least 4 mount and cap screws. There are others but make sure of the quality and fit of the clamps on the scope On the ring to rail screws no mort than 25 inch pounds, and I would not use loc tite at least until you are sure of the eye relief and that you will not have to remove the screws. For the scope mounts themselves the clamps should not be torqued beyond 18 inch pounds or you risk collapsing the scope tube or binding the internals of the optics.
As for the scope, there are many, some are junk other are fantastic. Usually price enters into the equation, but like firearms, the most expensive are not always the best. Once upon a time I was told that the price of the scope should equal the price of the firearm. For inexpensive firearms the cost of a good optic will usually exceed the price of the firearm. For expensive firearms the opposite is true, unless you have money to burn. The most expensive rifles I own cost me around $900, and all shoot sub moa groups. No need to spend thousands of dollars on a rifle when one hundreds or thousands less will do the same job. While my rifles cost less than $1000, my scopes cost around $1200. My rifles are Tikka T3x, Remington 700s and Winchester XPR and Model 70s. All shoot sub moa. My philosophy on scopes is, if you can't see it, you can't hit it. I favor Vortex optics. Scopes are Diamondback Tactical 4 - 24 x 50 and on my longer range rifles, Strike Eagle 5 - 25 x 56.
I have already been told here on this forum that there is no need for a 24 or 25 X scope, and that might be true, until you need it. I don't hunt in the woods, I hunt farm fields and if in the woods over meadows. My usual long shot is around 200 yards. I seldom see deer running, mostly they are moseying around and I have time to sight on them and check them out. That can be done with any scope, most people use a 3 x 9 which does work, until you can zoom in out to 24x and not only really check the deer out, but pick the exact spot where you want your sub moa rifle to place the bullet that will cause a DRT shot.
I have also been told that at higher magnifications it's hard to find the animal in the narrow field of view. Gentlemen, and ladies, that is essentially bull crap. While 3 x or 4 x gives you a wider field of view, if you take the time to practice acquiring a target at higher magnifications it's actually just as easy as at the lower magnifications. Or if you prefer, put a throw lever on the scope, find the animal at lower magnification then use the throw lever to zoom in. Try it, practice it, it's actually easy if you are shooting an animal that is not running, which you should not be shooting at anyway unless it's attacking you.
So here you have a brief explination of my ideas of mounting scopes, choosing optics and mounting hardware. Let the negative arguments and comments begin.
Indigo22
Well-known member
My deer hunting was generally done in the woods where a long shot was 75 yards. My rifle choices were a modern muzzleloader and a classic muzzleloader, a 30-06 Remington pump, and my dads 30/40 Kraig. Classic had open sights Modern had a 2-7 zoom as did my 06, the Kraig has a 4x scope on it. Sad to say I no longer have any of these rifles anymore.
I do have rimfires set up with scopes though one has a 1-4x Vortex scope that is fun on the range and another has a 6-20x50 for when I want to challenge myself to make little bitty holes and tight groups. I do have a 2x Burris pistol scope waiting to be mounted to something... likely going on my Mklll 22/45 LITE.
I do have rimfires set up with scopes though one has a 1-4x Vortex scope that is fun on the range and another has a 6-20x50 for when I want to challenge myself to make little bitty holes and tight groups. I do have a 2x Burris pistol scope waiting to be mounted to something... likely going on my Mklll 22/45 LITE.
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- Oct 5, 2025
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I'd like to add that there are several leveling devices on the market. If you are shooting longer distances it is a good idea to level everything up . I also have a level on the rear ring to be sure that I don't can't the rifle while aiming.
THREEDFLYER
Well-known member
My elk/deer hunting is done out west near Salmon Idaho so shots are typically going to be long.
Shot my elk with my .28 Nosler and 600 yards and my deer at 300 yards with my 6.5 PRC
Both are fitted with Vortex scopes and zeroed at 200 yards.
For Wisconsin I would be zeroed at 100 yards and a good 3-9 scope is adequate, but you want a quality scope that gathers plenty of light!!
I use an alignment rod to get my rings in the proper position and I use a laser bore sight to get me on the paper when installing a new scope.
The old school method that I go to with bolt action rifles is to set the rifle on a solid bench on a steady rest, removed the bolt and sight down the bore centering the bullseye then slowly raise your eye to the scope and adjust the scope until the crosshairs line up with the center of the bore. Simple, but it works! Do this at 25-30 yards to start and you will be on the paper with the first shot at 50 yards
Shot my elk with my .28 Nosler and 600 yards and my deer at 300 yards with my 6.5 PRC
Both are fitted with Vortex scopes and zeroed at 200 yards.
For Wisconsin I would be zeroed at 100 yards and a good 3-9 scope is adequate, but you want a quality scope that gathers plenty of light!!
I use an alignment rod to get my rings in the proper position and I use a laser bore sight to get me on the paper when installing a new scope.
The old school method that I go to with bolt action rifles is to set the rifle on a solid bench on a steady rest, removed the bolt and sight down the bore centering the bullseye then slowly raise your eye to the scope and adjust the scope until the crosshairs line up with the center of the bore. Simple, but it works! Do this at 25-30 yards to start and you will be on the paper with the first shot at 50 yards
Toyboy
Member
Any power scope in the 1.5x5, 2x7, or 3x9 category will get the job done. Where I'm at, the "big woods," a long shot is 50-70 yd. I think my longest shot in over 45 years of deer hunting is 85yd. Most are 45-60yd. I find that 3 power is more than sufficient for me.
My choice of scopes and rings are Leupold . Solid set up.
Sight in 1.5" to 2" high at 100yd will get you a deer
Good luck
T
My choice of scopes and rings are Leupold . Solid set up.
Sight in 1.5" to 2" high at 100yd will get you a deer
Good luck
T
One of the things that many people overlook is the fact that while a 3 - 9 will do the job, a 6-24 x 50 or a 5 - 25 x 56 offers a lot of advantages. One of the main advantages is that in dim light conditions, like first light or just before closing when light is less than desired, the larger objective lens is able to gather more light and provide brighter images. Sometimes in minimum light conditions it's hard to see the reticle because the dim light and black crosshairs have a tendency to blend together. On higher end scopes there are illuminated reticles which eliminate that issue and make the reticle show up clear on your target. Tactical turrets ensure precision. Contrary to popular belief just setting your zero a couple of inches high at 100 yards will not get you a hit that is dead on at 200 yards. As an example, using my Remington 700 in 338 Win Mag with a Vortex Strike Eagle 5 - 25 x 56 zeroed with 180 gr hand loads, zipping along at 3150 fps, dead on at 100 yards. When shooting with the 100 yard zero at 200 yards, in order to hit the target dead center at 200 yards I need to raise the elevation 2.5 moa, and bring the windage 3.0 inches left. While adding two inches at 100 would be hunting close the windage drift was a bit of a surprise. Anyway you might argue that two inches high from the 100 yard zero would still end up with a killing shot at 200, you would be correct, but that is assuming that your aim is perfect. Knowing that if my deer is at 200 yards I can adjust the parallax from 100 to 200 yards, eliminating parallax error, raise the elevation 2.5 clicks and shift the windage 3 clicks and be dead on,. All those adjustments will take all of about 3 seconds. Finding the target at a higher magnification is not all that difficult, providing you take the time to practice target acquisition at a higher magnification. Once you are on the target you can zoom in to an even higher magnification and pick the exact spot you want the bullet to impact.
Now for hunting in the woods with heavy brush, the 338 is not the firearm of choice, When shots are going to he at short range and fast the firearm of choice is a Marlin 336 in 35 Remington and Iron sights. As a hunter you pick the firearm appropriate for the conditions you are hunting, then practice with that firearm until you can place your shot exactly where you need to hit.
Now for hunting in the woods with heavy brush, the 338 is not the firearm of choice, When shots are going to he at short range and fast the firearm of choice is a Marlin 336 in 35 Remington and Iron sights. As a hunter you pick the firearm appropriate for the conditions you are hunting, then practice with that firearm until you can place your shot exactly where you need to hit.
THREEDFLYER
Well-known member
The .35 Rem is a fantastic northwoods gun
I also like the Winchester Model 71 in .348
Open sights for short range is a thrilling way to hunt!
I also like the Winchester Model 71 in .348
Open sights for short range is a thrilling way to hunt!
